Posted by My husband, Scott, has wanted to visit Alaska by ship, so we finally made the trek this summer. We booked an 11-day round-trip cruise on Seabourn Cruise Line from Vancouver. With down jackets, long johns, rain gear, and cameras in tow, we boarded the 450-passenger ship ready for adventure.
After a day cruising the calm waters of the Queen Charlotte Sound, our first stop was Ketchikan. We had signed up for a small boat river cruise excursion to explore crab pots and learn how Alaskan fishermen catch their delicious Dungeness crabs. Dungeness are cold-water crabs prized for their flaky, sweet, juicy meat. Once we had first-hand knowledge, pulled up crab pots, and held live crabs, it was time to enjoy an “all you can eat” crab feast at the George Inlet Lodge with a gorgeous water view. It took time to crack and pull the crab meat from the hard shells, and each table at the restaurant was encouraged to build a shell pile in the center of their table. Always the East Coast gentleman, Scott offered to crack and prepare the crab for me. I felt like a Queen. Our table ended up with a small shell pile compared to the hearty eaters in the rest of the room.
The cuisine aboard Seabourn is top-notch, featuring a selection from several onboard restaurants, including the Thomas Keller Grill. Alcohol and caviar are always unlimited. Guests also have a choice of indoor and outdoor dining at all meals. I always enjoy the afternoon tea service and the formal dining evening. The spa is also a welcome respite for us in the afternoons, where you can read on a warm molded chaise bed or enjoy a steam or sauna. I booked a few massages, acupuncture sessions, and even an inflammation-related fitness test.
We next headed to Sitka, the fur capital of Alaska. I was particularly excited about this stop, and it didn’t disappoint. We wandered into Sitka Fur Gallery and met Marcus Hernandez, the owner. We learned about his family-run business and partnership with the local Tlingit people. And yes, a purchase was made.
We ventured further north on our trip and reached the Hubbard Glacier. Scott was brave enough to ride in a zodiac boat up close to the ice and even sampled a taste. He was beyond lucky to catch the glacier calving as his zodiac cruised by. Check out the video! It was too cold for me to hang with the big dogs near the glacier, so I hung out on the ship and watched the action from afar.
The following day, we reached a picturesque spot called Icey Strait Point in the Inian Islands. We rode uphill in a mountain gondola, dared to hike a path with bear warning signs, and got so overheated in our multiple layers of clothing that Scott went swimming in the chilly ocean!
Soon, we arrived in Juneau, the capital city. It can only be reached by boat or airplane. It was time to explore independently, so we rented a jeep and drove around the island. Our jeep came complete with narration corresponding to the roads and sights along the drive. Highlights included the Mendenhall Glacier, Eagle Beach, and the National Shrine of St. Therese. It was liberating to be on our own after the crowds of our earlier excursions. We played our music and relaxed throughout the day.
The next stop was picturesque Wrangell. We signed up for the Jet boat adventure on the Stikine River. We got to immerse ourselves in the pristine wilderness of the world’s largest temperate rainforest. The Stikine River is one of North America’s last truly wild rivers, running directly through the nearly half-million-acre Stikine LeConte Wilderness area. Famed American naturalist John Muir described it as “a Yosemite 100 miles long.” The surrounding dense forest is home to various wildlife species. While onboard, we learned a bit of the area’s gold rush history, listened to thundering waterfalls, saw glaciers, and ended at Shakes Lake, dotted with sparkling blue icebergs. While delighting in the scenery, we were even served beverages and snacks, including scrumptious smoked Alaskan salmon. My only complaint was the loud motor of the jet boat. Headphones would have been a good addition to this outing.
We anchored in Misty Fjords the following day and took a breathtaking zodiac ride. We entered the most remote part of the Misty Fjords National Monument waterway, territory that explorer John Muir classed among the most beautiful places he had ever seen. I would have to agree. The narrow far end of the fjord is inaccessible by ship, but our Zodiac captain took us there. We learned that only a privileged few can claim to have seen this marvelous tribute to nature’s unbounded majesty. The number of waterfalls and sheer rock cliffs was astounding. The fact that we also had a sunny day to explore this pristine area was exceptionally rare. Mist usually covers the tops of the cliffs. This was my favorite scenery of the trip.
Returning to Vancouver, we cruised the Princess Royal Channel and Seymour Narrows to observe whales swimming near isolated homesites and remote islands. The Alaskans who build homes here have chosen to live off the grid in one of the most beautiful scenic areas. Scott could be found sitting on our balcony, wistfully taking in the view as we ended our trip, and I was ready to come home to warmer summer weather.
What a wonderful trip. Been to Alaska several times. Great country.