Posted by I embarked on a cruise departing from Cape Town, South Africa. The journey involved sailing on the Ritz-Carlton yacht, Luminara, through eight bodies of water before arriving in Singapore. I couldn’t wait to experience life in the Island nations along the way. What an adventure!
As we departed Cape Town, I was filled with excitement. The famous South African winds blew as I anticipated a long journey ahead, 35 days to Singapore. After a day at sea, we anchored off the coast of Mossel Bay, South Africa. It is a picturesque harbor town on the Southern side of the country. Mossel is part of the “Garden Route,” known for its mild climate, beautiful beaches, and natural landscapes. We wandered around the town, somewhat jet-lagged, and enjoyed being in the sunny weather in November.
The next day, we landed in Port Elizabeth, South Africa, which was recently renamed “Gqeberha.” This was our first chance to experience a safari. Addo Elephant National Park is home to over 600 elephants, as well as lions, zebras, deer, and other indigenous species. It hadn’t rained lately, and I was leery of the dust, so Scott made the day trip without me. To my surprise, he captured a video of lions mating! (Unfortunately, a dude in his jeep had a lot to say about what he saw. I apologize for the “language.” )
Two days later, we arrived in Durban, South Africa. My second safari opportunity awaited me at the Tala Game Reserve, nestled in the bushveld of KwaZulu-Natal. Here, the untamed landscape of baked red earth met arid acacia thornveld and wide open skies. Rain had fallen that morning, boosting my confidence against the dreaded dust, my worst allergy. I came prepared with my mask and bandanna, just in case the dust flared up. Tala’s claim to fame is its giraffe population, and luck was on our side. We spotted baby giraffes, only three days old, their fuzzy “pom poms” on their heads both adorable and delightful. We didn’t just see giraffes, though. Along the way, we encountered hippos, kudus, rhinos, ostriches, and even the elusive sable antelopes.
After more sea days, we left Africa behind and arrived at our first island, Madagascar, with stops at Port Dauphin and Tamosina. We began with a visit to Nahampoana Reserve, a lush 50-hectare sanctuary once known as the Garden of Acclimatization. Here, in the dappled light of towering palms and exotic flora, we encountered three species of lemurs, including the stunning ring-tailed lemur. Watching the mothers and their “attached” babies was a highlight for me. Life in Madagascar is difficult. Most homes are small one-room abodes, with dirt floors and scrap-metal or stick roofs. The average life expectancy is approximately 63 years old. Medical care is not easy to come by. Many children do not get to attend school as they are needed to work and earn a wage for their family. Since the 2025 coup, the military has run the country.
On our second day in the country, we ventured up the Pangales Canal to a small village. Malagasy life along the canal includes fishing, washing clothes, and swimming to beat the heat. I loved meeting the villagers, especially the children. Although we didn’t speak the same language, we communicated through gestures and smiles. The children liked seeing their photos on my iPhone. I enjoyed dancing with the kids to their local music.
Next, we glided through the Indian Ocean to French-speaking Saint-Denis, Reunion Island. Known for its waterfalls, we hired a local driver and guide to venture into the interior. Car-sick after many turns, we found water trickling from cliffs, not the raging falls we’d hoped for. After seeing waterfalls in Iceland and Alaska, these felt disappointing. But our visit to the Roulof Plantation De La Vanille, a vanilla plantation, became the day’s unexpected highlight. Here, we learned about the detailed work of pollinating vanilla flowers and growing them into successful pods. The process is long; from planting to selling, it can take over two years! Watching the pods heated, dried, and transformed into extract fascinated us. We didn’t leave empty-handed—purchasing both vanilla and the most delicious jams.
Mauritius was next on our itinerary, with a docking in Port Louis. We visited Le Saint Aubin to tour an original colonial home and sample their famous rum. We spent the rest of the day exploring the port, and we managed to squeeze in a visit to “One & Only” cashmere shop, which supplies cashmere to Loro Piana. Score!
Two ports in the Seychelles were featured next: Mahe and La Digue. We had heard about the breathtaking beaches lined with immense granite boulders on the island, so we went beach hunting both days. Being from California, we found that the most famous beaches were crowded and overrated. The one spot where we pulled the taxi over and jumped out turned out to be the most lovely one we experienced. On La Digue, we rented bicycles because there aren’t cars on the island. I discovered that once underway, my bicycle had the front brake permanently pushed “on.” Needless to say, I was irritated, yet I got quite the workout! I asked Scott to switch bikes with me for the ride back to the yacht, and within minutes, a local lady spotted the issue and she removed the front brake off “his” bike.
When we boarded the yacht, we were treated to a concert on deck from local musicians.
Three more days at sea took us to the most picturesque spot on our trip, the Maldives. The turquoise water was warm and clear, the beaches were stunning and uncrowded, and the locals were quite welcoming. I learned that the Maldives aren’t really separate tiny islands; they are atolls, which resemble doughnuts. They are composed of coral that has grown atop ancient volcanoes. The average elevation of the 1200 atolls is just five feet. Scientists have said that they will be underwater in the future. I felt lucky to experience the beauty and serenity that they provided. We spent the day at The Ritz Carlton Resort; a stunning architectural gem with individual “pod” type suites on the water.
As we continued our course towards Sri Lanka, I noticed plastic trash floating in the sea. It was so disturbing, and the cause was to be explained at the destinations to come. We spent two days in Sri Lanka. On day one, we focused on their most famous architect, Geoffrey Bawa. We began at House Number 11, Bawa’s former residence and living laboratory. Its series of interconnected townhouses, transformed over the decades into a singular, art-filled sanctuary, It’s an indoor/outdoor space (with mosquitoes). Each alcove was quite cluttered and dusty, but I could appreciate the design. We had lunch at The Gallery Café, Bawa’s former offices turned gallery and restaurant, beneath trellised shade. I was too afraid to eat the local cuisine, but Scott dove in. After lunch, we explored the grand National Museum, where we saw demonic ritual masks and the regalia of the last King of Kandy. The bathroom at the museum was a hole in the ground and a bucket of water. We concluded our day with a visit to Seema Malaka, Bawa’s meditative “floating temple” on Beira Lake. We were required to remove our shoes, and hence, my white socks got filthy. Our tour guide reprimanded a group of tourists who were about to take a photo with their backs to a statue of a deity. He said it was against the law… and to my surprise, it was!
On our second day in Sri Lanka, we visited the Handunugoda Tea Factory, which supplies tea to Marriage Frères in Paris. Watching the elderly women pick tea leaves under the hot, humid sun saddened me. They carried heavy bags to the scales and received payment based on the weight—eight dollars a day at most. I also observed a man skillfully making cinnamon: carving bark off a branch, then drying the curled stick at the top of his hut.
Our next stop that day was Koggala Beach to witness the standing fishermen. These men balance on poles in the ocean, casting their lines for small fish. Now more of a tourist attraction, they wait for a tip after posing for photos. The day continued with stops at a local market, a lighthouse, and a beach where turtles swim along the shore. We even saw a snake charmer! It proved to be a long day.
Did you know India has an island in the Andaman Sea? Surrounded by a more polluted, trash-filled ocean, we stopped at Port Blair, India. After a thorough check of the conditions at this port, I opted to stay on board. Scott ventured out and saw men urinating in public, rabid animals eating trash, and tuk-tuks weaving through traffic. We learned that this island was a source of a lot of the plastic trash in the sea. They don’t have the infrastructure to deal with garbage.
Our next stop was Phuket, Thailand. Scott went to the Elephant Jungle Sanctuary to prepare food and feed the elephants who had been rescued from captivity and cruel service. Some of the elephants would rock back and forth as they were trying to calm their past trauma. It was pretty sad. The best part was feeding them a whole watermelon.
Langkawi, Malaysia, was next on our itinerary. We decided to be daring and journey into the heart of the Mount Mat Chinchang Geoforest Park, where ancient stone formations, some over 500 million years old, form a dramatic backdrop for one of Southeast Asia’s most breathtaking experiences. Our destination was the Panorama Langkawi SkyCab, one of the world’s steepest cable car systems, ascending at a thrilling 42-degree gradient to the half-mile-high summit. Suspended above rainforest canopies and rugged limestone cliffs, we paused at the middle station to experience the Eagle’s Nest SkyWalk—a bold, glass-floored platform cantilevered 125 feet into the sky. Then, we rose further to the top station, the Langkawi SkyBridge—an architectural marvel that floats high above the jungle floor. From this curved suspension bridge, we could see beyond the Andaman Sea! Unfortunately, the public restrooms, like in Sri Lanka, consisted of a wet room, a toilet with no seat, and a bucket of water; no toilet paper. At least this time, I was prepared with Kleenex! To close out our adventure, once we reached the top, we were given a choice: wait on a hot, humid platform for 40 minutes to take a crowded elevator to the funicular, which brings you down off the mountain, or climb a rickety set of about 100 steps to get to the funicular. We chose the elevator!
Our last stop was Singapore! We checked into the Fullerton Bay Hotel, which had outstanding rooms but a very average pool and restaurant. We decided to chill and prepare for our evening flight rather than tour the city. I would definitely return to see Gardens By The Bay (with the Cloud Forest and Flower Dome) and the Botanic Gardens (with the National Orchid Garden).
Thirty-Three days on the Ritz-Carlton Yacht, Luminara, was a delight in every way. The Ritz-Carlton motto is “Ladies and gentlemen serving ladies and gentlemen.” We met such extremely kind, caring individuals who worked on the ship. We learned about their hometowns and ways of life. The guests were also terrific. We met many adventurous folks who were keen to explore the world while also enjoying gourmet meals, the spa, the pools, and top-notch entertainment. Our life onboard consisted of sunsets on the deck, spa days at sea, sports off the aft deck, world-renowned lectures, and dance parties. What a blissful way to travel!
Looks amazing, Robin.
The colors, the sounds and the magnificent description of your voyages were delicious.